Cotton Twill: Features and Uses in Sewing

What is Cotton Twill?

Twill — or cotton sergé — is a type of weave recognizable by its regular diagonal lines. This particular weave structure is achieved by shifting the weft thread: it goes under one, then under three warp threads, offsetting with each row. This process gives the fabric its diagonal appearance and tight weave, making it simultaneously strong, supple, and fluid. Less stiff than gabardine but just as dense, twill is especially suited for structured garments such as jackets or trousers.

Jauncourt — Personal work, CC BY-SA 3.0

The Advantages of Twill in Sewing

Cotton twill is appreciated for several reasons:

• Durability: its dense weave extends the garment's lifespan.
  
  

• Comfort: its natural flexibility ensures a beautiful drape.
  
  

• Wrinkle-resistance: unlike plain cotton weave, twill resists creasing.
  
  

It’s a technical, durable, and visually appealing fabric that meets the demands of eco-conscious design while offering numerous stylistic possibilities.

The Use of Organic Cotton Twill at Arachné

At Arachné, cotton twill is used with precision and creativity. We prioritize certified natural materials and work exclusively with high-quality fabrics sourced from committed European partners. For our collection, we’ve chosen an organic cotton twill that is soft, long-lasting, and environmentally responsible.

This is exemplified by our "Matisse" jacket, a standout piece from the SS2025 collection. This design combines the structure of cotton twill with a bold pattern inspired by Henri Matisse’s paper cut-outs. Abstract shapes in shades of blue stand out against a deep black background, giving the silhouette an artistic and contemporary energy. The tailored cut enhances the texture of the twill and highlights the unique, expressive nature of this couture jacket.

Discover this model at:
https://arachne.brussels/collections/coat/products/matisse-organic-cotton-twill-jacket

Conclusion

As a technical fabric par excellence, cotton twill offers a subtle balance of strength, elegance, and comfort. Carefully chosen by Arachné, it becomes the ideal foundation for structured garments with bold design, such as our "Matisse" jacket. This choice reflects our commitment to sustainable, local, and artistic fashion, where every fabric tells a story.